Noelle Carter Food

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The key to better baking? Temperature

Quick and easy croissants. (Dylan Simmons)

“Chilled.” “Room temperature.” “Melted.” These temperature descriptions are found in many recipe ingredient lists, particularly when it comes to baking. When the urge strikes, those of us who love to bake make our way to the kitchen to start cracking eggs, cubing butter and pouring milk. But when a recipe specifies a temperature, it's easy to wonder, “Does it really matter?” 

Unlike much savory cooking, baking frequently comes down to science, with each recipe serving as a delicious lesson in chemistry. And temperature matters. This simple measurement can dramatically affect everything from the fluidity of an ingredient, to the emulsification of a batter, to the way an ingredient dissolves or is incorporated into the larger creation.  These descriptions are more than extra words in a recipe, they are the critical steps in creating that perfect chewy cookie, flaky pie crust or soft tender cake. I'll explain the ins and outs, and how to handle the science of temperature. 

CHILL OUT

Let's start with cold hard numbers, a.k.a. chilled ingredients. When a recipe calls for an ingredient to be chilled, 35 degrees Fahrenheit is the ideal temperature. When butter is cut into doughs such as pie crusts and laminated pastries (ex.: Danish and puff pastries), it needs to be extremely cold in order to create pockets of rich, flaky goodness. Among its components, butter is made of fat and water. When it’s incorporated properly into these doughs, the water evaporates to steam, creating lift, while the fat creates crisp layers. If butter is too warm, it will melt into the dough before it has a chance to act, ruining the layers and creating a soggy mess. Too cold, and the butter is too hard to properly, and evenly, mix in with the rest of the dough.

PRO TIP: If your recipe calls for chilled butter, as with pie crusts, make sure not only your butter, but the other ingredients, and even equipment, are well-chilled. Refrigerating everything will help insure the ingredients remain cold as you work your magic.

Likewise, properly chilled ingredients can make a night and day difference in recipes as simple as a mousse, or even a basic whipped cream. Removing heavy or whipping cream from the refrigerator right before adding it to a recipe allows the air pockets that develop as it is whipped to remain in place and expand, all due to the cold fat in the cream. Have you ever tried whipping warm heavy cream? You’ve probably found you get less volume in the whip. This is because the fat has softened, lessening the ability of the air pockets to form and set. 

Pro Tip: Chilling the bowl of the stand mixer, ensure the cream stays cold throughout the whipping process. 

NOT TOO HOT, NOT TOO COLD — JUST RIGHT

Scones, muffins, cakes, and cookies frequently use what many recipes call “the creaming method.” The creaming method is when sugar and fat are whipped together, aerating and expanding the butter.  As the sugar moves through the butter, the tiny crystals create tiny air pockets that actually help the baked goods rise while they’re in the oven. Frequently, when recipes use the creaming method, they call for “room temperature” or “softened” butter. The best temperature for creaming butter is between 65 to 67 degrees Fahrenheit. Properly softened butter should give slightly when pressed, but still hold its shape. When butter is too cold, the butter and sugar can’t properly incorporate, and the resulting cakes and cookies are often dense and spongy. Eggs and milk, and other ingredients, should also be at room temperature to prevent the temperature of creamed butter and sugar from chilling.  

Speaking of eggs, room temperature eggs also play a large role in baked goods. If cold eggs are added to perfectly creamed sugar and butter, the batter will deflate; cold eggs chill the room temperature butter, making it stiff, and losing aeration. And when it comes to meringue, sugar and egg whites seem innocent enough right? Still, temperature is key. When egg whites are agitated (whipped) the proteins in the egg whites unravel and bond with the water in the whites, creating a foam. Room temperature proteins in the egg whites break down and whip up faster than cold egg whites. 

PRO TIP: Shorten the time it takes for ingredients to come to room temperature with a few simple hacks. To soften butter, invert a warmed measuring cup or baking dish over the butter until it’s properly softened (add hot water to the measuring cup or baking dish, or place them in the microwave, to heat them up.) And placing eggs in hot water (around 110 degrees Fahrenheit) for just a few minutes will have you whipping up a recipe in no time. 

“MELTED”

Do you prefer chewy cookies and bars? (Of course you do.) Melted butter is key in creating perfectly chewy creations. Whether you melt your butter in a saucepan or microwave (zap it for 10 to 20 second intervals), it should be between 85 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit and slightly warm to the touch. If the butter is too hot, ou run the risk of scrambling the eggs or crystalizing the sugar in your batter. 

LET’S GET BAKING

Croissants can be an intimidating pastry to create for the home baker. But with your knowledge of temperature, and my quick puff pastry method — sometimes called “a ruff puff” — you can cut your time, and effort, in half compared to traditional puff pastry recipes. Keeping everything just right, and you’ll have stunning croissants of your own in no time.

— Dylan Simmons

QUICK AND EASY CROISSANTS

5 hours. Makes 8 croissants 

1 envelope (2 ¼ teaspoons) instant dry yeast

3 tablespoons sugar, plus ¼ teaspoon

½ cup warm milk (100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit)

2 ½ cups (11 1/4 ounces) bread flour

¾ t teaspoon salt

1 ¼ teaspoon baking powder 

 3/4 cup (1 ½ sticks ) butter, cut ½ inch pieces and chilled

1 egg

1 tablespoon heavy cream

1. Whisk yeast, sugar, and warm milk in a small bowl, let set until the yeast has bloomed and mixture has cooled to room temperature, about 15 minutes. 

2. Meanwhile combine flour, salt, and baking powder in a food processor, pulse 3 times. Scatter butter overtop of the flour mixture and pulse 8 times, till butter resembles a pea sized shape. Add the cooled yeast mixture to the food processor and pulse 10 times, till dough loosely comes together and forms a ball. Using your hands, place dough on a sheet of plastic wrap and form into a 5” x 7” rectangle. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and place in freezer for 30 minutes till semi-ferm. 

4. Lightly flour a work surface. Remove the chilled dough from freezer and roll into a 9” x 13” rectangle. With the longest side facing you, fold rectangle lengthwise into thirds. Repeat the fold 3 times. With the last fold, shape dough into a 5” x 7” rectangle. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours. 

5. Combine the egg and heavy cream in a small bowl and beat with a fork to create an egg wash, set aside. Remove the chilled dough from refrigerator and role into a 16” x 12” rectangle. Cut dough into 8 triangles, 12 inches long and 3 inches at the base.

6. Score a small slit in the center of each triangle base. Gently stretch the corners and tip, then tightly roll the dough starting from the base to the top giving them a croissant shape. Place croissants tip side down onto a prepared baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Brush each croissant with egg wash (reserve egg wash for later use), then cover with plastic wrap and let rise for 2 hours at room temperature.

7. Heat oven to 425 degrees. Brush the croissants again with egg wash. Bake for 7 minutes then reduce oven temperature to 375 F and bake until croissants are deep golden brown, about 10 to 15 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack and serve. 

Note. From Dylan Simmons.